English
Calendula: The Skincare Science Behind an Ancient Plant
Created on 05.14
In the ingredient lists of many people's skincare products or in gardens, calendula (Calendula officinalis) is a very familiar name. Its bright orange-yellow flowers evoke a sense of warmth and joy.
Calendula is not only beautiful but has also been used as a medicinal plant since ancient times to treat various skin problems. Nowadays, calendula extract is increasingly appearing in skincare products, especially for inflammation-related concerns such as acne, redness, and minor injuries.
This article will discuss why calendula is so favored, from its history, ingredients, and scientific mechanisms to why origin affects efficacy, decoding the scientific mystery of this ornamental plant that could win on looks alone but chooses to excel in skincare.
01 The Ancient "Flower of Ritual"
Calendula (scientific name: Calendula officinalis), also known as Mary's gold, common marigold, and pot marigold. "Marigold" is an abbreviation of "Mary's gold."
Calendula was first named by the ancient Romans. The genus name Calendula originates from the Latin word "calends" or "kalendae," meaning "the first day of the month," because the ancient Romans observed that calendula always bloomed on the first day of each month. In fact, calendula blooms year-round. Furthermore, as its flowers follow the sun's trajectory, opening in the morning and closing in the evening, it is also called the "herb of the sun" or "bride of the sun."
Ancient Romans and Greeks often used it to make garlands or crowns for various ceremonies and celebrations. Calendula was also used in some early Christian activities in certain countries; one of its alternative names is Mary's gold, with Mary referring to the Virgin Mary. Additionally, in India, it is used to decorate Hindu deities.
In European history, it was also used in cooking, for salads, stews, and to color dishes and dairy products. Calendula is also known as "the poor man's saffron" and is used as a substitute for saffron.
Tip: Calendula, as an ornamental plant, possesses celebrity-level beauty, but its flower language is quite melancholic. Be careful when gifting flowers!
The flower language of calendula is: "farewell" or "sorrow of parting". It originates from a legend: Apollo, the sun god, and Clytie fell in love, but a jealous deity covered the sky with dark clouds, hiding Apollo for eight days. During these eight days, Clytie died of emaciation and despair. On the ninth day, Apollo appeared and transformed Clytie into a marigold as a final sacrifice.
02 The Contemporary "Skin Healer Master"
Since ancient Roman times, marigold has been a highly regarded medicinal plant. Today, its medicinal value in skin healing, anti-inflammation, and antibacterial properties has been widely recognized by modern European medicine and is listed in the pharmacopoeias of multiple authoritative institutions such as the European Pharmacopoeia (EP) and the European Medicines Agency (EMA).
What truly made it famous was during wartime. During the American Civil War and World War I, calendula, due to its excellent anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties, was made into ointments and lotions and used as first-aid supplies to treat soldiers' wounds, reduce infection, and accelerate healing. Antibiotics had not yet appeared at that time, and this natural "antiseptic + anti-inflammatory" effect made it the flower of the battlefield.
Modern research is gradually verifying these traditional experiences with data. So, why is it effective?
The effectiveness of calendula stems from the following three components:
• Triterpenoid Saponins: These compounds can effectively reduce tissue inflammation, soothe skin discomfort, and stimulate the regeneration and repair of skin cells. They are the main active ingredients responsible for calendula's anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effects. Among them is a unique calendula component called "calendulosides".
• Flavonoids: This is a class of polyphenol compounds that are natural antioxidants, capable of neutralizing harmful free radicals and protecting cells from oxidative damage. Representative flavonoids found in calendula include quercetin and rutin.
• Carotenoids: This class of compounds also belongs to natural antioxidants, such as beta-carotene and lutein. They are not only the natural pigments that give calendula its bright orange-yellow color but also act as antioxidants, protecting the skin from external environmental damage.
Other ingredients include polysaccharides, which can stimulate immune cells and aid tissue repair; coumarins, which assist in anti-inflammation and calm the skin more quickly; and fatty acids and mucilage, which moisturize, strengthen the skin barrier, and lock in moisture.
Table 1 Core Skincare Benefits of Calendula: Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Promotes Repair
Health Benefits | Main Contributing Components | Brief Description of Mechanism of Action |
Anti-inflammatory effect | Triterpene saponins, flavonoids, carotenoids | These components can inhibit the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (such as tumor necrosis factor-α, TNF-α; interleukin-1β, IL-1β) and enzymes (such as cyclooxygenase-2, COX-2) in the body, thereby effectively reducing skin redness, pain, and discomfort. |
Antioxidant protection | Flavonoids, carotenoids, phenolic acids | They can efficiently scavenge harmful free radicals produced by metabolism and external stress, such as superoxide radicals, hydroxyl radicals, and DPPH radicals, protecting cells from oxidative damage, which is crucial for skin health and anti-aging. |
Accelerates wound healing | Triterpene saponins, polysaccharides | Promotes the metabolism of collagen in the skin, accelerates the migration and proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes to help rebuild the damaged skin barrier. At the same time, it stimulates the generation of new blood vessels (angiogenesis), providing necessary structural support and nutrition for the repair of damaged tissues, thereby accelerating the wound healing process. In addition, its anti-inflammatory properties help reduce oxidative stress at the wound site, further supporting the repair process. |
03 Anti-acne Potential
How much does calendula extract help with acne?
The occurrence of acne typically involves four main processes: excessive sebum production, clogged pores, bacterial proliferation, and inflammatory response.
Although calendula is not a specific medicinal plant for acne, it directly addresses the latter two aspects: by reducing inflammation, it helps resolve red, swollen pimples faster; it inhibits some bacteria, reducing secondary infections; and it accelerates the repair of damaged skin, lowering the risk of acne marks and scars.
Here's an additional point: in addition to the powerful anti-inflammatory and repair mechanisms mentioned above, calendula has another synergistic anti-acne effect:
• Broad-spectrum antibacterial activity: Studies have confirmed that calendula extract has inhibitory effects on a variety of microorganisms, including common skin pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans.
In addition, calendula extract can selectively inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acnes without inhibiting Staphylococcus epidermidis. This characteristic can help the skin, especially the skin with acne, to restore and balance its microbial flora.
Tip: Staphylococcus epidermidis
This is a beneficial skin flora that not only produces antimicrobial substances to inhibit the growth of harmful pathogens but also possesses anti-inflammatory effects. Therefore, Staphylococcus epidermidis plays a key role in maintaining the skin barrier function and regulating the skin's innate immune response.
A healthy skin state is not about pursuing sterility, but about maintaining a balanced ecosystem where beneficial microorganisms are dominant.
Traditional or commonly used acne products may be "indiscriminately attacking" your skin, such as topical antibiotics and benzoyl peroxide (BPO). The mechanism of action of these ingredients is "non-selective." While they kill acne-causing Propionibacterium acnes, they also ruthlessly eliminate beneficial commensal bacteria like Staphylococcus epidermidis.
In summary, many mild, natural anti-acne products include calendula as an auxiliary ingredient. It is particularly suitable for acne-prone skin with significant inflammation, or for sensitive skin that requires gentle conditioning. Of course, severe acne should still be treated by a doctor with regular therapy.
04 Not all marigolds are created equal!
The genus Calendula actually contains about 25 different species, and the medicinal marigold (Calendula officinalis) that we are most familiar with is the one with the highest genetic diversity and the most extensive research.
Simply put, marigold is a "polyploid species," meaning it has multiple copies of each gene. This rich genetic diversity allows it to produce marigolds with different chemical properties under various environmental conditions.
Therefore, the origin of marigold is a crucial factor.
Marigold is native to Southern Europe and the Mediterranean region, such as southern Italy, where the climate conditions provide it with unique advantages for growth.
The abundant sunshine and well-drained soil of southern Italy create an ideal growing environment for marigold. Plants grown in this environment can synthesize beneficial compounds such as flavonoids and carotenoids at higher concentrations and with stronger activity, potentially leading to superior medicinal and cosmetic effects.
Therefore, for consumers seeking high quality and strong efficacy, paying attention to the origin of marigold in products is a wise tip.
Conclusion
Marigold is more than just its beautiful appearance; its true treasure lies in the various natural active compounds contained within its flowers, such as flavonoids, triterpene saponins, and carotenoids. These components collectively endow marigold with scientifically proven powerful anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties, as well as antibacterial effects.
Therefore, marigold can be a highly promising natural ingredient for the adjunctive treatment and management of inflammatory skin conditions such as acne.
Next time you see marigold in a skincare ingredient list or a corner of your garden, how will you view this "sunflower" that embodies ancient wisdom and modern science? Will you be able to eloquently discuss the history, geography, and scientific stories condensed behind this golden flower, as well as the natural ingredients that hide equally fascinating science?
References
1.Sapkota B, Kunwar P. Natural Product Communications. 2024;19(6).
2.Shahane K, Kshirsagar M, Tambe S, Jain D, et al. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2023 Apr 18;16(4):611.
3.Nucia A, Ociepa T, Król B, Okoń S. 2025. PeerJ 13:e18814
4.Aya Khouchlaa, et al. Advances in Pharmacological and Pharmaceutical Sciences Volume 2023, Article ID 2482544, 27
5.Pelletier-Ahmed, Latifa. (2016).
6.Wikipedia: Calendula officinalis
Contact
Leave your information and we will contact you.